Bibliography


ANON., 2014. 25 photos of ’80s Hairstyles so bad they’re actually good [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/26740191513271733/
ANON., 2013. Contemporary elizabethan [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/495184921499638269/
DE CRITZ, J., 1605. Portrait of Anne Vavasour[viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e9/AnneVavasour.jpg
ANON., n.d. Elizabethan Hairstyles, Elizabethan Era Hairstyles, Elizabethan times Hairstyles, Coifures, hairdos [viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/elizabethan-hairstyles.html
ANON., 2014. Elizabethan clothing [viewed 3 December 2015]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/391742867560978926/
ANON., 2012. Elizabethan era: Fashion | publish with Glogster![viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/143200463122481969/
ANON., 2015. Hair long gone [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/328199891571769334/
HILLIARD, N., 1599. The ‘Hardwick Hall’ portrait of Elizabeth I of England.[viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/16/Elizabeth_I_of_England_Hardwick_1592.jpg
LOCKEY, R., 1592. Bess of Hardwick, Countess of Shrewsbury[viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bess_of_Hardwick#/media/File:Elizabeth_Talbot,_Countess_of_Shrewsbury_from_NPG.jpg
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MOWER, S., 2010. In: 26 January 2010 [viewed 4 December 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-couture/chanel
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NIVEN, L., 2015. Rihanna: Hair Style File [viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2011/10/03/hair-hero-rihanna/gallery/682099
PEAKE, R., n.d. Ann Vavasour [Oil on panel] [viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/ann-vavasour-15601650-217300
SEVILLA, C., n.d. 45 of Lady Gaga’s most spectacular wigs. In:Buzzfeed. [viewed 4 December 2015]. Available from: http://www.buzzfeed.com/catesevilla/lady-gagas-most-spectacular-wigs#.fflkY16Pj
ANON., n.d. Tudor hair [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-hair.htm
ANON., 2015. World of ‘Avante Guarde’ Hairstyles & Headpieces[viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/500884789784425613/
ANON., 2015. World of ‘Avante Guarde’ Hairstyles & Headpieces[viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/500884789784425613/

Citations, Quotes & Annotations

ANON., 2014. 25 photos of ’80s Hairstyles so bad they’re actually good [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/26740191513271733/
(Anon., 2014)
ANON., 2013. Contemporary elizabethan [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/495184921499638269/
(Anon., 2013)
DE CRITZ, J., 1605. Portrait of Anne Vavasour[viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e9/AnneVavasour.jpg
(de Critz 1605)
ANON., n.d. Elizabethan Hairstyles, Elizabethan Era Hairstyles, Elizabethan times Hairstyles, Coifures, hairdos [viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/elizabethan-hairstyles.html
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., 2014. Elizabethan clothing [viewed 3 December 2015]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/391742867560978926/
(Anon., 2014)
ANON., 2012. Elizabethan era: Fashion | publish with Glogster![viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/143200463122481969/
(Anon., 2012)
ANON., 2015. Hair long gone [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/328199891571769334/
(Anon., 2015)
HILLIARD, N., 1599. The ‘Hardwick Hall’ portrait of Elizabeth I of England.[viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/16/Elizabeth_I_of_England_Hardwick_1592.jpg
(Hilliard 1599)
LOCKEY, R., 1592. Bess of Hardwick, Countess of Shrewsbury[viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bess_of_Hardwick#/media/File:Elizabeth_Talbot,_Countess_of_Shrewsbury_from_NPG.jpg
(Lockey 1592)
ANON., 2014. Mary’s board [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/525513850243131610/
(Anon., 2014)
ANON., 2014. Mary’s board [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/525513850243131610/
(Anon., 2014)
MOWER, S., 2010. In: 26 January 2010 [viewed 4 December 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-couture/chanel
(Mower 2010)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b8/98/96/b898961a649ae04990087149582f2bd7.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: http://www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=l&tid=24287422
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 3 December 2015]. Available from: https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8681/16495298437_c494c6b3ae.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 4 December 2015]. Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/81/0c/51/810c51ea5d76136e7619de60f535ae5a.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.ukmix.org/proxy.php?code=03c442c99564c4f41cc508b1a1398d0467143f74bef5c57c811537c006fd4bec&url=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5ibG9nY2RuLmNvbS93d3cuc3R5bGVsaXN0LmNvbS9tZWRpYS8yMDEzLzAzL2NocmlzdGluYS1hZ3VpbGVyYS1mcm8tNjIwa20wMTI1MTMtMTM2MzI5NzM3MS5qcGc%3D
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: http://i1.wp.com/50.87.248.88/~trystanc/costume/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/sca-hair-QElizabeth1580.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: http://weeklydictator.com/blog1/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/elizabeth-i.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/c0/67/a2/c067a26d64ddd8ecc1ba33852c111bcc.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 3 December 2015]. Available from: http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2013/02/11/article-2277221-175ED117000005DC-879_306x423.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/f5/25/0f/f5250f3aa567e35506c7b7bd7b62b8b0.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b8/98/96/b898961a649ae04990087149582f2bd7.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://scaryfake.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/1207330467_mrs-lovett.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 4 December 2015]. Available from: http://stylenoted.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Screen-shot-2012-07-06-at-4.04.30-PM.png
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTcyWDUwMA==/z/51gAAOxy63FS5-uY/$_35.JPG
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., n.d. [viewed 4 December 2015]. Available from: http://28.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lfe1d0ryCC1qas7gqo1_500.jpg
(Anon., n.d.)
NIVEN, L., 2015. Rihanna: Hair Style File [viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2011/10/03/hair-hero-rihanna/gallery/682099
(Niven 2015)
PEAKE, R., n.d. Ann Vavasour [Oil on panel] [viewed 18 November 2015]. Available from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/ann-vavasour-15601650-217300
(Peake n.d.)
SEVILLA, C., n.d. 45 of Lady Gaga’s most spectacular wigs. In:Buzzfeed. [viewed 4 December 2015]. Available from: http://www.buzzfeed.com/catesevilla/lady-gagas-most-spectacular-wigs#.fflkY16Pj
(Sevilla n.d.)
ANON., n.d. Tudor hair [viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-hair.htm
(Anon., n.d.)
ANON., 2015. World of ‘Avante Guarde’ Hairstyles & Headpieces[viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/500884789784425613/
(Anon., 2015)
ANON., 2015. World of ‘Avante Guarde’ Hairstyles & Headpieces[viewed 2 December 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/500884789784425613/
(Anon., 2015)
I thoroughly enjoyed this unit at the start. I have loved doing hair since the brief unit I did at college. I found the lessons face paced, which meant my short attention span was dealt with. I enjoyed the speed at which new things were taught to me. I seemed to be learning two or three new skills a session.  I started with a routine after each session, I would blog the technical aspect. I found this to be really helpful and I'll carry this through to the next unit.

 I have always been a book worm, yet I struggled so much with researching Elizabethan hairstyles at the beginning but as soon as I found something that peaked my interest I was off.

 This method of assessment was a first for me and it took me quite far out of my comfort zone. I'm not used to being handed a design by a stylist and asked to execute it to their vision. It's quite an unnerving experience. Something that I have learnt from this lesson that I need to communicate more with my partner. I think this would have improved my final outcome. It's only when I finished my last blog and I reviewed them that I saw how much work I'd done that I felt some sort of pride. I seemed to lose hope not long after being paired up because I felt like I was failing but I've learnt I can't beat myself up. I am still learning.
My hair can be very unruly, so I don't wash it the night before as it'll be too silky to work with even if I don't put any products in my hair. I'm lucky because my hair doesn't really get greasy unless I leave it for longer than 3 days.

I feel a little nervous going into this assessment because Sophia said she felt unhappy with how she had done in our practice together. I knew that she had struggled with the rats and that was because she wasn't in the lesson when we were taught how to use them.

 I feel as though the beginning of the session got off on the wrong foot. Sophia underestimated the amount of time it was going to take to crimp and rick-rack my hair. She spent a very long time doing the optional make-up in the prep session. I think this was poor time management on her behalf. Billie jumped in and started crimped after she had checked with Helen. While Billie was crimping Sophia nipped downstairs to get an SD card and a hot shoe adaptor and this really irritated Billie.

Billie had done most of the crimping which left Sophia barely any time to do the rick-racking. I know from personal experience that that technique is a painstakingly slow one as it's very fiddley. Billie later told me the only reason she helped out is because it was my design that was on the line.

We move into the next class room to start the timed assessment. To say I'm nervous for Sophia is a huge understatement. I know she has a rough understanding of the technical skills but the time management could be an issue.

Lottie makes us all feel calm by chatting away to us like she normally would and it's a nice touch. I was expecting almost GCSE examination conditions, which I personally find horrific. She put on the radio and it just felt like another Monday afternoon in a hair practical with Lottie.

I had to sit on my hands. I had to physically restrain myself from touching, aiding, suggesting or helping. I found it excruciating. Not because I'm some weird control freak but because I always offer to help people when I can do something when they struggle. I guess it's an eldest sibling trait. I've always been taught by someone showing me as opposed to them doing it for me and I just apply this to everyday life.

 Sophia sections off my hair and begins trying to wrestle my hair into a rat. At first she really struggles and it makes me glad that I'm heavy because it stops my hands coming up to help. The problem was the angle she was trying to roll the hair down onto my scalp. It mean the rats wouldn't sit in the right place. It became really clear in her facial expressions how unhappy she was and how frustrated she was getting. 

 Once she had managed to tame one side of my hair she began work on the other side. Again, the same problem with the angle that she had on the other section. I just pull out my phone to distract myself. It's really difficult not being able to help, I keep bringing this point up but it's the first time I've designed something for someone else to do. It becomes clear I designed this based on my own ability.

The rats keep dropping and Sophia is piling pins in it to try and make it secure. I did show her the 'Anchor' technique that you can used with pins and kirby grips. It makes a massive difference if you're using it to make part of the design stable. I used it a lot in my assessment on Sophia. Otherwise you are just sliding grips upon grips and they aren't doing anything.

When Sophia undoes all of the rick-rack pins I can say I'm 100% with the result from this technique. It's made my hair sit as short as I intended on my design. During a practice session I said I don't mind some of the rick-racked hair being pinned up to help cover up the back as it'll add to the design looking 'pulled out'

When she finishes, she sprays it all in place with some hairspray. I ask her if she's happy with how she did and she seems ok. She's not overly happy with the back of it.
I think had I been more thorough with my explanation of how to execute my design it might have ended up with a better result. I take some responsibility in how this turned out but I think the massive issue was Sophia missing the crucial lessons that my hair style was based on. I think had she been there she would have had a better understanding. I would have liked to have made my design more complicated but after speaking with Sophia she said that she wasn't that confident with her plaits so I did my best to make a simple yet effect design but she did her best and that's all anyone can ask from any of us.
I packed and repacked my hair kit for my assessment today. It's the first assessment I've done since starting the course. Nervous is the biggest understatement. I've made sure that my black clothes are freshly washed and I look professional. My hair is tied up off my face and I've put my antibacterial hand wash in my kit, I'm the worlds worst person for touching my face or anything other than what I'm working on so I thought this would be a good counter measure for hygiene.

 I've practiced quiet a few times and I'm not really feeling any more confident. I try and think positive otherwise I'll stress myself out. On my mirror, I've printed out all the technical blogs I've done for the techniques I'll be using during this assessment. I've also stuck up the pictures from the practice sessions and well as the hair design itself. I've circle the areas that I struggled with on the photos so I know that's where I need to pay extra attention.

I've already crimped the hair in my prep session previous to this. It's already apparent that Sophia's broken baby hairs aren't going cooperate. I really take my time with my pin tail comb making sure that I've got really clean sectioning.  Lottie has said this time and time again that you can't go back and fix bad sectioning after you've finished the look. I know from my own experiences that when I've been unhappy with the sectioning on a finished look, I feel as though it ruins the entire look.

 It's only know that I've noticed the hair is a lot thicker on one side. I think this might be due to the breakage of Sophia's hair. She does straighten it every day. I try not to panic and begin sliding sectioning clips in. I take a nice clean section and do a french plait horizontally to act as the anchor. I'm so proud of this plait. It's really tight, each section is even and it looks good. I plait the way down the section and use slightly shorter fine pins that I've bought to pin it in place. 

 I back comb the remaining section feeling really pleased with how it's going so far. I pin the rat on the plait, and I realise after I comb the hair over it that it's too far down the back of the head. Feeling really disheartened, I take out the plait and all the pins and leave this section loose. I make another section above this one and repeat the plaiting process. I'm all fingers and thumbs at this point so I feel like I'm messing up. I have to grab a minute to calm myself before I continue. I'm not as happy with the second attempt of the French plait so I do the same on the other side. 

 I really struggle trying to roll the hair onto the rat, I struggle with tucking the hair onto the rat. There just seems to be too much. Thinking fast, I take a thin section of the back combed hair and make a finger roll the same width as the rat I'm using, and I pin this in front of it. I then use the remaining hair to pull over the new roll and the rat and pin it into place. Ross taught me this cool little trick with fine pins, if you behind one of the legs back itself, it becomes great at holding hair into place that isn't on the scalp. I'm completely relying on this. 

 We have a heart shape. Kind of. It's really getting me down because I really struggled with this. I used so much hairspray on the front of her hair to try and keep the broke hairs down.

I then kanerow the middle section, she wanted a plait going along the section. This was simple enough. With the left over part of this plait I tuck it into the rat that had the thinner section of hair.

Not a lot of time left! I've a bit of a speed demon when it comes to curling. I make sure the curlers aren't too hot, and wrapping the hair around the tongs and curl. I alternate the direction as practiced otherwise all of the curls would merge together.

Finally ready to photograph. I'm not happy and I think it shows in my facial experession. I'm already ripping my own work apart with critique. I can't cover the rats, it's not even etc.

 What I would have done differently:

 I would have liked to have maybe used rick-racking instead of crimping. It might have made it easier to create a heart shape instead of using rats. Rats are great on the katie head, on someone's hair? Something I don't feel overly comfortable.

 Spent more time trying to get the two halves the same height. It's obvious in the photos that they aren't.
Try and smooth over the smaller hairs at the front.


I would have liked a more detailed design. Maybe even tear sheets, or even some photos on a phone that gave her inspiration, There were no annotation, no notes or anything. I didn't mind working with someone else's design though, I quite like the idea of doing this as sometimes it's more stressful designing a hairstyle than actually doing it. I did try and ask for what inspired the design so I could do some more research on it, but the answers I received were not the most detailed. I thought it was a good call using the different type of fine pins. They were slightly shorter so easier to use when pinning the plaits in place. I'm not at all happy with my final outcome. After hearing a comment from a fellow classmate who said they wouldn't have been happy if I had been the partner really put me in the dumps. The only positive I can find in this is that I'm actually reasonably quick at curling and this was a life saver as I was nearly out of time. 

 Here are the JPEGS of my finished look.




During our hair practical lesson Sophia and I swapped designs. Sophia's design is this:


What I'll need:

 - Paddlebrush
- Sectioning  Clips
- Kirby Grips
- Fine Pins
- Crimpers
- Pin Tail Comb
- Padding
- Heat Resistance Spray
- Hair Spray
- Fine Pins
- 2 Rats/Props
- Curling Tongs

 After looking at the design and looking at my Technical File, I sourced all the information I could (It's handy having the Blogger app) and began doing Sopia's hair and reflecting on this first attempt I have made a step by step for myself.


 Before I started to carry out her design I did a hair consultation on her hair. After talking to her at some length about her hair and what her daily routine is, it's clear to see that her hair is fairly damaged. She has naturally straight hair, but she straightens it every day. This is important to make a note of this because it means I'll have to use a lower heat when using the crimper and curling tongs.

 Method



      1. Spray all of the hair with the heat resistance spray and brush it through to make sure all of the hair is evenly coated.
      2. I section the hair off. I take the main section and put a center parting in and clip this up.
      3. Looking at my brief I can see that in between the bottom curls and the heart shaped hair is a plait. That goes horizontally. From ear to ear. So I section of the amount of hair that I think I'm going to need as the plait is going to be about 2cm thick. I then clip this up.
      4. I then crimp the first top section of hair. Starting with the left. When I have done this I take out a section of hair at the back to French plait. I feel as though with Sophia having thick hair it would be better to use a anchor method to put a rat into her hair.
      5. Backcomb the section and use the anchor method to keep the rat secure. Pin into place. When both of these are in the right place it should look like a heart shape
      6. Do the same to the right side.
      7. Go in with the side of the pintail comb while using hair spray on the front to catch any fly aways.
      8. Unclipping the skinny middle section. I kanerow this plait to her scalp. Kanerow is a reversed French Plait.
      9. Tuck the end of the plait into one of the rats.
      10. I take out the bottom section and alternate the direction of the curls using a medium heat on the curling irons. It's important to change the direction of the curls, if you don't then it means that the curls will turn into a single ringlet and that wasn't what was on my partner's design.
      11. Using a fine pin if necessary, spread the hair to make sure the heartshape is still strong.
      12. Set with hairspray.











I wasn't happy with my first result and I have since been practising at home on my Katie head to try and improve the overall shaping of the hair. I know that I can do all of the individual technical components I'm just a bit nervous about combining quite a few considering one is fairly tricky. I think the easiest bits of this assessment will be the plaits, the curls and the crimping. What I am playing closer attention to is my parting work and the using padding to create shapes because it isn't as easy as it looks.

 I think it's going to be hard to get the shape the front because of Sophia's hair. I've noticed it's very damaged from her day to day routine of straightening it. This means there's quite a lot of broken hair at the front, making it shorter. The only thing I can hope that is by crimping the hair that it's new texture will mean it's got a better chance of staying in it's new shape once it's been backcombed. This is the theory. I'm just praying that it'll work.






This would be the first time that we had to swap our designs. Before I gave Sophia my design, I asked her how comfortable she was with plaits. She answered honestly and said that she wasn't that confident but she'd try her best. This made it easy to pick what design I was going to give her as I wasn't completely sure what design I was going to use.

On my hair chart, I had noticed very different working styles. I may not be the best person in the world at drawing hair but I had made up for this with annotations of my design. Just to be clear as to what I wanted. Comparing our designs? It meant I was going to have to ask a whole lot of questions to find out what she wanted.

I was quite excited to see how well she'd do my design justice. I suggested that the best crimper would be the larger plated ones. It would save time and I personally prefer the look of the bigger crimper. My hair is quite thick, but most of my layers have grown out. So I thought this would make it easier to put it up into the rats.

I became aware that timing might be an issue for Sophia. The top half of my hair needed to be crimped and the underneath needed to be rick-racked. Both of these are fairly time consuming. Unfortunately Sophia had missed the lessons on how to do this technique, so I was trying to explain it to her from the chair. Luckily, Lottie swooped in and helped out.

I also had to explain how to use a rat/prop because she also had missed this technical. It's hard to explain this without showing it to someone, so I did my best. Placement of the rats were off. Which meant my design didn't look right. Instead of them being sat on my crown they were placed almost behind my ears. The back didn't look great either. So there was a lot of work to be done.

I wanted the bottom later to have curls at the bottom of the rick-racking. We tried this and it didn't work. So I decided to scratch this out of my design. I had also decided that the two tendrils that I left out at the front were to be curled.

I think that Sophia will need to practice lots. It'll become easier the more she does it I had to bear in mind that it was the first time that she had used new techniques and that it could quite a scary venture trying out someone's design. I just think she needs to become more confident in what she's doing and she'll nail it.





 The design I chose to give to Sophia was Design Three. After speaking to her I asked her how confident she was with doing plaits and she said she wasn't very confident so this aided me in deciding which one to choose.

I talked her through the annotations and she seemed reasonably happy with the design that I'd given her. The only thing that would be tricky would be putting the hair into rats. Rick-racking isn't necessarily a difficult thing to do, but it can be fiddly and time consuming.

I've included another version of my design, this hair chart was drawn at a different angle. I made it more a technical than an arty drawing. I've almost created my own key for these designs. The zig zags represent crimped hair, I've drawn the rat into the design and thatched it out. I'd like to try and convince you there was a technical reason behind how I drew the spiral curls, but as I've mentioned before; I suck at drawing hair.

I'm really hoping Sophia can do this design justice because it's quite simple to look at but because of the different textures and because of the shape I'm hoping that my design delivers the contemporary Elizabethan requirement.


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